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Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Friday, July 10, 2009

Facebook and Twitter Blocked Due to Riots

After the unfortunate events that occurred recently in Xinjiang, the Chinese government has decided to block access across China to Facebook and Twitter, in addition to the already blocked blog websites, including Blogger and Wordpress.  According to "official" sources, the extremists who rioted in Xinjiang were being coordinated by messages on social networking sites, so the government's response was to block the whole country.  Not so surprising for a country that doesn't value freedom of expression, but rather inconvenient for us.

We apologize if we are unable to respond to Facebook messages or post pictures.  Hopefully the government will restore access to those sites soon.  Recently, access to Google was blocked for a few days as the government wanted to send a "message" to encourage Google to block porn sites (and who knows what else).  Fortunately access was restored quickly.

It is strange to us that as China modernizes, the crackdown on the internet seems to be getting worse.  We can only hope that those in power do have the nation's best interests in mind, though we don't always agree with their methods.  The riot in Xinjiang will only exacerbate existing ethnic tensions in a country where irrational nationalism is all too common.  Our own home countries, Canada and the US, have their own spotted history dealing with racial violence, so we can hardly stand on a moral high ground when it comes to these matters, but we send them our pryers and well wishes as they try to deal with this situation and restore peace.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Doing Some Freelancing

I (Camilla) have been trying to do some freelance writing on the web.  I've always enjoyed writing and since I have some free time these days, I thought I would try my hand at it.  I'm just trying to build up my portfolio at this point.  I have gotten paid, but not much.  Some people actually do make a living at it though, and we're hoping that will happen for me as I gain more experience.

One of my articles about the Yumberry won (to my utter astonishment) an Editor's Choice Award on Suite101.com!  You can read it here: 

Check out some of my other articles on the site as well.

I am still writing for www.thecircumference.org, a travel site based in my native Toronto!  Lately my article about Fujianese Tea Ceremony has appeared there:

I'm excited to see where this freelance writing thing takes me!

Monday, June 22, 2009

Village Life



Chris and I spent a night last week in a Chinese village. A friend of ours goes periodically to her ancestral village to help tutor some of the kids in English and to encourage them to stay in school. This was the first time since we arrived in Xiamen that Chris and I got to go into a rural area of Fujian province. I had visited a village in Shanxi province before to help out with a school, so I had some idea of what to expect, but it was still an eye-opening experience.


Granite quarries are important in the industry here, so many of the village houses we saw were made of stone, and therefore were quite sturdily built. You could tell it was quite a prosperous village based on the quality of the houses, many of which had embellished tile roofs. The house we were staying at was quite large, with two stories, 4 small bedrooms and a central room that was open to the sky. It had electricity and running water too. Our friend told us that it was the house her grandfather had lived in, and was therefore probably close to a century old. Of course, it wasn’t like home. The beds were beautifully carved of wood, but were basically wooden benches on which a straw mat had been laid. It was pretty amazing to be staying in such a house though! Chris and I had brought air mattresses, and we managed to find a mosquito net for me, so we passed the night as comfortably as could be expected.



We spent most of our time hanging out with some of the local teenagers. When I first met them, I honestly thought they were maybe 12 or 13 years old. I was shocked to find out that they were all 16 or over (up to 18 years old)! I don’t know if it was undernourishment or other factors, but they all looked (and acted) much younger than their years. The crazy thing was that many of them, young and innocent as they were, had already been drawn into local gangs, survived drug abuse, or been approached to become prostitutes. I guess in this rural area the rule of law is little felt, and local gangs and criminals have been running the show for years. Within their own village, the kids were somewhat protected, but when they have to go to neighboring towns and villages to go to middle and high school, they are exposed to these bad influences. Many of the kids also don’t have much in the way of role models, with their parents working in far off cities, or who have mental problems, and who are generally uneducated themselves so don’t encourage their children very much in their education.


The kids were incredibly sweet though – none of this “too cool for you” attitude or pampered selfishness that many city kids have. The older kids took care of the younger kids with a parent-like affection, and many of them are running the household. It is strange – they are so child-like in some ways, and so mature in others. We tutored them for a bit in English, although none of them really seemed to see the point of staying in school, and they took us to a local temple and up the mountain to a beautiful lake where we jumped in (clothes and all) and went swimming. After their initial shyness, they became all talkative, especially after they figured out that I speak a bit of Chinese…then it was all chatter until we had to leave, at which they made me promise to come back and go swimming all day long with them. Two girls in particular really tugged at my heartstrings…one has survived an encounter with drug abuse and a stint in rehab, and her friend, her companion since they were born, has a mentally ill mother and brother, and is basically taking care of the family.


We only stayed for about 24 hours, but it was an exhausting and HOT 24 hours, and we felt like we had done enough for several days. In the midst of the playing and the learning and the surviving mosquitoes and hard beds though, were moments of real enjoyment and relaxation. The countryside is so beautiful, and the people so warm and simple. And although clearly there is a darker underbelly to rural China, the villages have their own charm that the cities cannot begin to emulate. And being in a situation where people have so many needs (they are far from destitute, yet there is still so much to be done in terms of the quality of life, and the choices and opportunities they have available to them), makes me rethink what I’m really doing with my life, and how I can best use the time I have here in China.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Ipod Touch


I finally gave in a bought an Apple product. The Ipod Touch is well worth the $220 it costs. I outlined a few of the nice things about it here

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Catching up with old friends

Recently Chris and I went back to Shanghai to catch up with old friends. Chris is on holiday during the finals period between semesters, so we had a couple weeks off. Some of our teenagers from the KG group last year were graduating, and the timing worked out perfectly for us to go to their graduation! It was so wonderful to be able to share such a momentous day with them. I was also able to spend some time with my girls' small group that I led last year, and it was great to be able to see how the girls have grown, and to be able to mutually encourage each other.

Living in Shanghai is expensive! We didn't realize how much until we went to visit! Transportation, especially, is very expensive, especially as we had to take a taxi to the subway from where we were staying in Pudong with our friends. Additionally, there is so much good shopping and there are so many good Western restaurants that we spent more than we originally intended to. Fortunately, living in Xiamen is much cheaper and we're going to be frugal for the next few weeks =). It was worth it though, for real burgers, and the dark chocolate granita at Whisk...Mmmm!

Our friend Matt, who teaches at Xiamen U with us, also joined us, so we had fun exploring Shanghai with him and for the first time went to the Shanghai Museum! You know, going to museums isn't really something you do when you live IN the city, but now that we were there as tourists, we enjoyed it! Admission was free, and they had some extensive collections of ancient coins, paintings, etc...

After we spent some time in Shanghai, we took the fast train to Hangzhou. It was Matt's first time, and the first time Chris and I experienced nice weather there =). The West Lake is just exquisite. In spite of being one of China's prime tourist attractions, it is surprisingly un-Disneyfied. The classical architecture has been well preserved, and the grounds and gardens are well-kept. They should be - the gardens in Hangzhou have been being cultivated for a thousand years! The two causeways that you can walk to cross the lake and take in the sights were built 900 to 1200 years ago, by famous poet-governers of the Tang and Song dynasties. Everything is clean, and it's refreshing to be in China and be able to walk in the shade of towering bamboo, spruce and pine trees, and enjoy the sight of lotuses swaying in the breeze. Actually the lotuses really caught my eye this time, as it is early summer and they are just starting to bloom.

We also had the opportunity to go a little off the beaten track and hike through some of the tea fields just south of the West Lake. The low rows of tea bushes combing the valleys and hillsides were some of the loveliest natural sights we have seen in China. This is where the famous West Lake Longjing Tea is produced, a light green tea that is hand-cured in large heated woks. It was so quiet in these tea fields that we couldn't hear any sounds except for the crunch of our own footsteps in the dry leaves, the crickets chirping and the sound of songbirds. It was pretty hard to believe that we were only minutes away from the popular West Lake area. The path also took us through tea villages nestled in the hills. These groups of houses, built in the traditional Hangzhou style with whitewashed walls, latticed windows and black tile roofs, were such a far cry from the modern metropolis that Chris and I have come to know as China. The owners of family-run teahouses that dotted our route continually came out to ask us in for a cup of tea. Although we politely declined this time, it would be lovely to relax by the side of the road, take in the scenery, and enjoy the harvest of the tea fields.

I'm just about finished an article on Fujianese tea ceremony, popular in Xiamen, and I'm going to write one on on the Hangzhou tea fields soon. Stay tuned!

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

My article

My article has appeared on The Circumference. Check it out: Experience 'Nam at the Cu Chi Tunnels.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Article coming up

Camilla has joined the writing team on the website TheCircumference.org.  Her first article is in the review process and should be published soon.  Take a look at the interesting stories on this new travel website!  We're excited - this will be Camilla's first time being published since a stint at her local newspaper in high school!

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Camilla's Kitchen


Camilla has started a cooking blog called Camilla's Kitchen.
I'm enjoying it, because I'm the recipient of many great foods!
She is really enjoying cooking and baking and making great use of our tiny kitchen. I wish I could take a picture of how small our kitchen is, but even with the wide-angle lens on, I can't back up enough to get much of a picture!
Here is a picture of one of the latest dishes she made, which you can read about on her blog...Bon Appetit!

Monday, April 20, 2009

China!

China is such an interesting place. I love that the culture is so different, but sometimes it's difficult. My students are incredibly homogeneous in their views.
I think the idea of a national culture is difficult for Americans to grasp. When I first went to University I was amazed at how differently people from my own state could think and act. We had people from the central valley who grew up in places where agriculture was the big industry. These people have a totally different out-look on things.
Interestingly, when Camilla and I met, we were very surprised by how similar our cultures were even through we were from opposite sides of the continent. Everything in between our homes is very different, though.
America doesn't really have one culture (I know that we have some similar values, we also have American pride, but we are not one in culture). In my class I try to talk about "Western Culture", but what does that mean? To ask "what is the culture like in America?" is like asking "what is the weather like in China?" (extremely varied). But, I think in many ways you could ask the question "what is Chinese culture like?" and get as reasonable of an answer as a question like "whats the weather like in Southern California?" (generally mild!).

So, in my years in China I have been forming opinions and having them broken down, but in general I know more about Chinese culture than I ever did before I came to China. There are so many differences between Western and Chinese culture that I don't know where to begin, but here goes...

Monday, April 13, 2009

My Chinese Essay

Okay I'm pretty proud of this so I thought I'd post it just for fun. My tutor has me writing an essay every week to practice using new words, and although I usually have some mistakes, it's pretty cool to be able to write something in Chinese, using my own ideas.

借债是不是好事?

在21世纪,很多中国人开始向银行贷款买车,买房子,等等。。。 这样做,他们可以用明天的钱来实现今天的梦。以前,“信用”这个观念还没发现,很多人没办法买车,房子,等等。 现在就可以。信用对经济,对个人都有好处。
不过,借债过日子不一定是一个好事。有的人工作不稳定,没有工作的时候,就不能按时还钱。那他们得借越来越多钱来生活。他们的信用会越来越差,银行不再借钱给他们。那他们怎么办?没办法还钱,他们不但丢人,而且连生命也可能没有!
看看美国的情况。 在西方,很多人借债过日子。买房子的时候,只要付百分之五的房款。可是国家有困难的时候,经济差一点儿,收入就不稳定,有的人不能按时地还在银行借的钱。他们的房子就没了。
借债享受生活要多小心。信用有好处,可是如果经济的情况不好,这个好处可以变成不利条件。

I know there are some mistakes, but the gist of it is this:

Borrowing money - good or bad?

In the 21st century, many Chinese people are starting to take out loans at the bank to buy cars, apartments, etc... This way, they can use tomorrow's money to realize their dreams today. In the past, "credit" was an undiscovered concept; many people had no way to buy cars, houses, etc. Now they can. Credit has many benefits both for the economy and for the individual.
However, using credit for your daily needs isn't necessarily a good thing. Some people's jobs are not stable, and when they're out of a job, they can't make their payments promptly. Then they must borrow more and more money just to live. Their credit rating will get worse and worse, and the bank will no longer lend money to them. Then what will they do? Without any way to pay back the money, they will not only lose face, but perhaps even their lives (note: I know I'm being dramatic here but I wanted to use that word)!
Look at the US situation. In the west, many people borrow money for their daily needs. When you go to buy a house, you only have to pay 5% of the total cost. But when the nation is going through difficulties and the economy isn't good, their income isn't stable and they're unable to make their payments. Then they may lose their house.
You must be very careful when borrowing money to enjoy life. There are many benefits to using credit, but when the economical situation isn't good, the benefit may become a disadvantage.

Hikes, BBQs, and Tea tasting

A few days ago it was our 6 month wedding anniversary (hard to believe, but true), and we celebrated by going to a Brazilian BBQ place in Xiamen. The service was pretty good, but I don't know if it truly deserved the title of "Brazilian" BBQ...unless fishballs, cuttlefish, and pineapple are common things to bbq in Brazil =). Nevertheless, there was some good meat...some pork and lamb, though the beef was tough and stringy, unfortunately. I don't know what it is with Xiamen, but they just don't tend to have very good beef. Maybe because it's an island? I haven't seen any cows around...

Anyway, although we did enjoy the Brazilian restaurant, our appetite for beef was not yet sated, so we decided to have a BBQ on our own to celebrate Easter Sunday. We set up our little bbq on our friend's balcony (we wanted to do it on the roof but it was too windy and dark). After a couple hours of trying to light the smoky Chinese charcoal (it seriously seemed to have fire-retardant properties), we finally got it going, and were able to roast a nice piece of steak and some chicken kabobs. Some experimenting on my part turned up some homemade honey-garlic bbq sauce, and we had quite a nice dinner with a few of our coworkers!

So that was our Easter Sunday...we also went to the morning service on the beach at the international fellowship, and enjoyed chatting with some of the young people there over brunch. I really think every service should be on the beach if the weather permits...it was so much nicer.

In other news, we have taken advantage of the nice weather to hike a few of the trails in the hills around our apartment. On one such occasion, we hiked up a nicely maintained trail and inadvertently snuck into the Botanical Gardens through a back path without paying the 40RMB entrance fee. The Xiamen Botanical Gardens are HUGE, and quite nicely maintained...they have lovely garbage cans in the shape of cartoon characters, just to match the natural scenery. Apparently some of our friends have been caught before while trying to sneak in, but I suppose since it was a Thursday, security was a bit lax.

On another so-called "mountain" we hiked up, we found a great spot where you can view pretty much the whole island from the top of a small pagoda. It would be a great place to bring visitors (hint hint come visit us) to show them what Xiamen looks like as a whole.

Last bit of news...we went again to Gulangyu island (a cute island just off Xiamen where motor vehicles are banned...except for electric people movers which play annoying Disneyland music...it is China after all), and had fun observing "bride beach". Literally dozens of brides and grooms go there on any given day to take their wedding pictures. I'll get Chris to post a pic of it. We also did a tea tasting and bought a Minnan tea set. "Minnan" is the term for the local people here, who speak Minnan dialect, and they all love to spend their afternoons imbibing tea from these miniature little tea sets. There is a whole ritual involved: you have to rinse the tea once, warm the tea cups by pouring hot water over them, then add more hot water to the tea pot. Once steeped, you use the lid to remove any bubbles, and pour the tea into a small jug, where you can observe the consistency of the tea as your pour it out into the tiny cups. Each cup is scarcely larger than a thimble, but the emphasis is on enjoying the fragrance and taste of the tea. You really can taste a huge difference between different grades of tea. And as impractical as the little tea sets are, EVERYONE here has them. Even the little street side restaurants have a little folding table out for the staff to enjoy their mini cups of tea in the afternoon.

Oh finally, one more thing! This is kind of weird! Chris and I were invited to a free lunch at a 5-star hotel. Yeah I know, no such thing as a free lunch right? Turns out, they were filming a promotional video and wanted some white people to be in it! Hmm...guess I didn't really qualify, but I got to go anyway and have a free buffet lunch. It was a little strange to be having lunch while a cameraman is filming over your shoulder, but it was certainly interesting. Apparently the fact of being foreign entitles you to 5-star treatment in China. Of course, being Chinese-Canadian, I get kind of in a huff when people treat Chris like a star, and me like a nobody. Sometimes I bring Chris to do stuff with me (go shopping, order a coffee, get photocopies done) simply because we get such better service when he is with me. *Shrug* I tell myself I am privileged to get the "insider" treatment (on my good days at least...on my bad days I'm complainin' with the best of 'em!). Okay that was long, but that's it for now!

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Enjoying the domestic life

It's good. Life is good here in Xiamen. We are making a fraction of what we were making in Shanghai, but we feel like it is worth it. We've got a beautiful view of tree-covered mountains from our window (which we have yet to hike, but we probably should before it gets too hot), as well as a view of the local neighbourhood in all its ramshackle, noisy glory.

Life here is a bit more relaxed. We have a lot more time to study Chinese and (for Chris) to pursue his photography hobby. I've gotten a Chinese tutor (a student at the university) to meet with me once a week to keep me on track, and I'm doing pretty well with my goal of a lesson a week from my textbook.

We've been trying to cook at home most of the time, primarily to avoid the mounds of MSG dumped in every meal we eat out =p, and I've been challenged to make a lot of baked goods I never would have if necessity didn't prompt me. We have a little Midea toaster oven which is sufficient for making small portions of muffins, banana bread, cornbread, brownies, and cakes. With our limited resources, I'm forced to make them all from scratch, and I get such a feeling of achievement when something turns out right, and it's made from nothing more than some flour, oil, milk and eggs...and a few other things. It's like a miracle! Whoever invented baking was a genius! There are a few imported items we have at our disposal - pasta, tortilla shells, olive oil, a few varieties of cheese...but that is pretty much the extent of our western ingredients! We are growing herbs in some planter boxes for when we run out of the dried ones I brought from home. It's kind of a simpler life without all the pre-packaged processed foods we buy at home.

I DO miss all the good restaurants in Toronto though. I didn't realize before what a food mecca Toronto is, with so many authentic, reasonably priced restaurants! It really makes you miss things like real bread, bagels, beef, fresh pasta and authentic ethnic foods =p.

Anyway, Mr and Mrs Waffles are doing well. Mrs Waffles had a bald spot under her eye which has since filled in...yay! Today they took a bath in their water dish and they were flinging water everywhere as they dried their sodden, feathery little bodies. Now they are playing with a toilet paper roll. They are so cute!

Oh yes, one other thing. Yesterday Chris bought a little 50 RMB barbeque from Carrefour, and we put a bunch of things on skewers and tried to barbeque them on our balcony. Unfortunately, the Chinese charcoal smoked like a chimney, and our neighbours called security! Nothing much came of it - Chris pretended (well not really) not to understand anything, said sorry a bunch of times, and everybody laughed it off. I guess it wasn't the best footing for our first meeting with our neighbours, but oh well. Just another little adventure in the Middle Kingdom =).

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Love Birds

Click on the picture below and it should show a video :)

From Love Birds


From Love Birds

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Our New Apartment

We moved into our new apartment! If you click on the slideshow below, you can see the pictures individually, or you can just watch the slideshow.

We also got some Love Birds...Mr. and Mrs. Waffles.

Friday, February 20, 2009

Back in China

We arrived in Xiamen, China on February 9th and I started work on February 16th. That gave us less than a week to get to settled and used to things here in Xiamen. Luckily the transition went very smoothly, and we are having a great time. Since we have lived in China before, transitioning to a new city was not a big deal. The usual "This is China" difficulties apply, but they aren't so bad after a few months or years!

Xiamen is truly one of the nicer Chinese cities I have visited. There is a beach which is supposedly clean enough to swim at (in certain places). There are mountains with hiking trails. And there is a no honking rule in the city which makes a phenomenal impact on how enjoyable it is to stroll around downtown.

We were greeted at the bus station by a 3rd year student who was assigned to help us. She has been a pleasant and invaluable help to us especially during the first few days. She patiently and graciously gave up her time to take us to get a bank account, fill out paperwork, get a health examination, find places to eat, and find an apartment. We are very much indebted to her.

Now we have our own little apartment on the 20th floor of one of the newest buildings overlooking Xiamen. Our apartment came furnished, but we have been buying little things like kitchen appliances and pillows for the last few days. Tonight Camilla cooked our first dinner in our little kitchen.

Now that I have completed the first week of my job, I have a much better idea about what the next six months will look like. My students are great so far, although class sizes and class time are a down side. I have 14 different classes that range from five to 43 students (so far). The classes only meet for two 45 minute periods every other week. Basically, I am a facilitator of English. Lesson planning should be quite simple, but engaging 40 students in oral English with such a short amount of time is a major challenge. My students are luckily at a pretty high level and they are quite enthusiastic so far. I'm hoping to do some interesting discussions and really get them thinking and speaking.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Down Under

We spent a wonderful two weeks in New Zealand. It is a beautiful country, and all the beautiful spots and all close together, so we were able to see quite a lot. There are lovely scenic drives all along the coast and through the pastoral countryside, where you could see fluffy white sheep grazing peacefully in the fields. We climbed Mt Doom, aka the mountain used in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy to represent the evil volcano of Mordor. At least, we climbed partway up before the weather got bad. Among other highlights, we bathed in a natural thermal river! The temperature was perfect...about 40 degrees, and it was just like a jacuzzi except it was a flowing river surrounded by lush natural vegetation!

We enjoyed wine tasting in the wine region of Marlborough, and then drove down to Dunedin where we visited my aunt and her husband. They were very gracious hosts and they were sorry we could only stay one night! Our schedule was tight. We drove through the Fjordlands and camped by a lakeside with a beautiful mountain view. Then we did a hike through the valley near Mount Cook and had a marvellous view of that famous peak. All in all, it was mainly just beautiful scenery. Kiwis are really fond of the outdoors and they have a lot of infrastructure and tourist information set up to help you enjoy it.

We enjoyed the busker festival in Christchurch before flying to Sydney, where we spent the morning walking around the harbourfront. The Sydney opera house was kind of cool, but not amazingly impressive in real life. Then we drove into the Blue Mountains for more beautiful views (and some bright coloured parrots!), and camped a night near some noisy drunk tourists (grr)! In the coolness of the morning we went to a few lookouts on the mountains, and then decided to drive back to the Australian coast. It's too HOT to not be near the beach!

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Fun times in Singapore

It was a relief to enter the sterile shiny world that is Singapore. Not sterile as in character-less. Sterile as in.......clean, germ-free, modern, GLEAMING! Singapore is truly a first world city, with first world prices to boot! We had to spend $40 a night to sleep in a concrete box with a mattress on the floor at the hostel we booked. Nevertheless, it was CLEAN and homey.

We stayed for 6 nights, explored the city and visited a friend of mine (Camilla) from college. Singapore is a really interesting city, with a variety of different ethnic groups. We had fun exploring Little India, the Arab Quarter, and Chinatown (which is alight with glowing red lanterns and loud chinese music and hordes of shoppers for Chinese New Year). The subway is efficient and modern (it reminded us of the subway in Shanghai), and reasonably priced.

My friend Nadine took us to Sentosa island, where they have created several beaches out of sand imported from Indonesia. The beaches are very nice and clean, but feel kind of artificial...like Disneyland or something. We went to the Aquarium on the island and walked through the shark tunnel, as well as saw all sorts of other strange and wondrous creatures.

After our week in Singapore, we crossed the border to Malaysia (which was a easy and pain-free experience) and are staying in the border town of Johor Bharu. Today we went to Carrefour and bought lots of cheap camping equipment for our trip to New Zealand and Australia.

We fly tomorrow to the Gold Coast in Australia and will spend a day there before catching another flight to Auckland, New Zealand. We have a car rented there and will have about 12 days to drive from Auckland to Christchurch. We also look forward to visiting my aunt in Dunedin, a mysterious character whom I have never met, though she has always been thoughtful and generous with birthdays and special occasions. Exciting!

We then will fly from Christchurch to Sydney and have a little less than a week to get back to the Gold Coast, from whence we will fly back to Malaysia, Hong Kong, and...our final destination, CHINA. WHOO HOO.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Uncle Ho's Kingdom

We are just finishing off our time in Saigon, flying for Singapore tomorrow. We were going to go to Cambodia, but because my (Camilla's) passport is running majorly low on pages, we'll have to skip it since it requires a full page visa. The Canadian consulate is singularly unhelpful when it comes to running out of pages in your passport. You can't add pages, and it takes 3 weeks to get a new passport. ALSO, you need to have your original birth certificate, as well as someone living in the jurisdiction of that consulate who has known you for 2 years and who is a magistrate, lawyer, doctor, dentist, mayor (?!), judge, or public notary. It's ridonkulous. So I may have to apply for a new passport when we arrive in Hong Kong in early February, and Chris and I may have to be separated for 2 or 3 weeks while I wait for it (since he has to arrive in China to start work)!!! So sad!!!

Vietnam has been interesting. There is lots here to capture your interest. They've got an interesting history, cool handicrafts, Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body, museums, good food... The only problem is, it's really frustrating getting ripped off at every turn. Even trying to buy a Coke on the street is an exercise in getting ridiculously cheated! There are 2 prices for everything, and the "tourist" price is completely unreasonable. And unlike in China, they don't sheepishly tell you a more reasonable price when you call their bluff and walk away. No, they are completely shameless here.

Nevertheless, we've had some good experiences. In Hanoi we went on a shopping spree and bought lots of neat local handicrafts and shipped them home. We went to a water-puppet show with traditional music, which was really fun. We also got the chance to see Ho Chi Minh's (aka "Uncle Ho") mummified body lying in a glass case. It was pretty creepy. They did a really good job embalming him, and he seriously looked like he was just dozing. Maybe it was the ripples in the glass surrounding him that distorted his image as we walked past, but I could almost swear I saw him move!!! Every time I snuck a glance at him, I kept expecting him to sit up and start giving orders. Thankfully, Uncle Ho stayed dead.

Then we flew down to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon), where there is more of a backpacker scene and therefore prices were a little more reasonable. We visited the War Remnants Museum, which displayed the horrors of the Vietnam War (with an obvious bias towards the Vietcong side, not surprisingly) as well as various models of US airplanes, helicopters and tanks. We also took a day trip to the Cu Chi tunnels, which are a network of tiny little tunnels used by the Vietcong during the war. I (Camilla) crawled into a little trapdoor in the ground (Chris wouldn't fit) that was used as a hidden entrance to the tunnels. There were also displays of all sorts of grisly traps used to injure and kill US soldiers...lots of spikes. On the same trip, we visited a Caodai Temple, a supposedly "indigenous" religion...which basically means it's a combination of Catholicism, Buddhism, Eastern Mysticism, Islam, Hinduism...anything you can imagine. The temple was a hideous, gaudy big building. It was just one of the interesting elements mentioned in the book "The Quiet American" which we've both been reading.

The weather was a lot nicer in Saigon, which is in the south of Vietnam. We took a couple days trip to the beach at Mui Ne, a fishing village-turned-resort town. The beach was nice, the weather was great, and we have a couple dozen mosquito bites as a souvenir of our sojourn there.

Today is our last day in Saigon and we plan to spend it eating good food, drinking the remarkably drinkable Vietnamese coffee (at least Camilla is), visiting the Fine Arts museum and maybe seeing our friend Sara (whom we taught with in Shanghai) if we manage to meet up. It's been quite a ride in Uncle Ho's kingdom, and while we'll miss some aspects of it, we're also looking forward to our next adventures.